Pet Turtles

Turtles are intelligent, interesting creatures that come in a variety of species. One of the most common turtles kept domestically is the red-eared slider. Turtles generally live in water but must be provided with a dry dock area, as well. Specific behavioral, environmental, and nutritional requirements for turtles vary, depending on species. An exotic animal veterinarian can educate you regarding the requirements of your specific pet. Since turtles’ body temperatures (and as a result, their immune systems, digestion, and behavior) are regulated by the temperature of their surroundings, you must learn the requirements for your turtle species. Regardless of species, all turtles carry Salmonella bacteria; thus, care must be taken to wash hands after handling any turtle.

Aquatic turtles (live in water): sliders, painted, map, cooter turtles.

Semi-aquatic turtles (live near water): box, wood turtles.

 

Turtle Housing

For most turtles, an aquarium works well. A young, red-eared slider can be housed in a 20-gallon aquarium, to start. In general, 10-12cm turtles each require 2.5 square feet of space. Turtles 20cm or longer need a minimum of double this amount of space.

Water should be at least 1.5 to 2 times the top shell (carapace) length, and tanks should have several inches of air space between the water surface and the tank top to prevent escapes and predation by other pets, such as cats and dogs. Since turtles defecate frequently, a water filtration system should be used to maintain water cleanliness.

Weekly water changes are also required to keep the water clean. Feeding turtles in an enclosure separate from their living enclosure can help minimize water soiling. Heat must be provided by an over-the-tank ceramic heat bulb, an under the tank heater, or a submersible heater.

An out of the water basking zone should be provided with a bulb focused over this area. Ideally a second dry dock area should be at the cooler end of the tank. Water temperatures must be maintained within particular ranges specific to given species. Several thermometers should be used to measure temperatures both in and out of the water.

Ideally, a heat gradient, with the warmest temperature in the basking zone (29-32 Celsius for red-eared sliders), and the coolest temperature farthest from this zone, should be offered. For red-eared sliders, water temperature should range approximately 23-29 Celsius, but never fall below 23 Celsius.

Nutrition

Some turtles are herbivores (eat only plant matter), others are carnivores (eat only animal matter), and some are omnivores (eat both plant and animal matter). An exotic animal veterinarian can educate you as to the specific dietary needs of your particular turtle. Adult red-eared sliders are omnivores. Their diet should be made up of about 50% commercial aquatic pelleted turtle diets diets (i.e. Mazuri® turtle pellets and gel diets, Reptomin®)and live fish and insects (guppies, goldfish, tubifex worms, and earthworms), appropriate to their size. Live fish prey are preferable to frozen fish, as fish frozen for longer than 3 months lose nutrients (eg Thiamin) and can cause nutritional deficiencies

The other 50% can include plant matter in the form of chopped leafy greens (Asian greens such as kangkong, kale, romaine, red and green leaf lettuce, parsley, dandelion and mustard greens, zuchinni, carrot, and squash) and a small amount of fruit. They are generally fed every 2-3 days. Young, growing red-eared sliders are more carnivorous and eat mainly turtle pellets or live fish every day. They accept more vegetable matter as they age.

For carnivorous turtles, if the diet is at least 30% or more commercially prepared products (such as pellets), supplements generally are not necessary

For more omnivorous species, especially those consuming a lot of vegetables, supplement with calcium 2-3 times a week (but make sure it’s phosphorus-free)

Juvenile turtles should be offered a calcium supplement without vitamin D dusted on their greens every day when they are growing

Healthcare

All turtles should be examined by an exotic animal veterinarian both just after they are acquired, to ensure that husbandry and feeding requirements are being met, and annually to make sure turtles stay healthy. In general, all turtles carry some gastrointestinal parasites. Thus, their feces should be checked, and they should be de-wormed at least once. Proper preventative medicine, particularly with reptiles, whose health depends so much on their environmental conditions, is essential to helping ensure your turtle’s well-being.

Substrate

  • Aquatic turtles need land for basking out of water eg floating platform
  • Semi-aquatic turtles need 75% land and 25% water
  • Acceptable substrates for outside of water: pelleted recycled paper (Yesterday’s News®, Care Fresh®), sphagnum moss, leaf litter, unfertilized potting soil
  • If use gravel in water, it must be large enough not to swallow
  • When choosing substrate, remember you must remove soiled bedding weekly and change it completely 1-2 times a month

Lighting- Heat and UVB

  • Best light is natural sunlight, unfiltered by window
  • House your reptiles outdoors as much as climate permits
  • Whether inside or outside do provide a shade area to prevent overheating
  • In indoor settings you must provide UVB and basking heat
  • UVB light is essential in making vitamin D in skin, which enables reptile to metabolize calcium properly and maintain healthy bones
  • Typically, all bulbs are either incandescent or fluorescent. Full-spectrum lighting containing wavelengths in the UVB spectrum (290-320 nm) is essential for vitamin D production
  • Incandescent (traditional screw-in) full-spectrum bulbs provide visible (infrared) light and some heat. Most produce some UV light but not in required UVB spectrum. Therefore, incandescent bulbs are good for producing heat but not UV light
  • Some compact fluorescent bulbs produce excessive UVB and can cause “snow blindness” or conjunctivitis so not all lights are created equal and need to be checked. We recommend using reputable brands only
  • Fluorescent, coiled, screw-in bulbs produce UVB and light, but little heat
  • Do note that you will likely need additional heat source (incandescent bulb, halogen bulb, or under-tank heater) when using fluorescent bulb
  • Change UV bulbs every 6 months regardless if light appears to be working due to fading of the UVB spectrum
  • Combination units (mercury vapor lamps) have full-spectrum fluorescent and halogen spot light for heat
  • Bulbs producing UVB and heat should be on 12 hours per day

Water Filtration

  • A large and good filter is required for all aquatic turtle’s water
  • Large external canister filters (such as the Magnum 385®, Eheim) containing activated charcoal work the best
  • Clean filter every few weeks
  • Vacuum at least 50% of the gravel, if present, in the water every few weeks to help establish normal bacteria
  • Change 20-30% of the water in tank weekly
  • Do not need to de-chlorinate water unless fish are present
  • Filters may or may not be used for semi-aquatic species in which water can be drained manually. The water should be changed 2-3 times a week
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